Tool Time!
Okay guys, it’s time to talk tools! It can be difficult to budget for the tools you’ll need if you’re not sure what you’re getting into, so I put together a list of everything I use to build vans to help you better budget for your own project. You may not need all of them, or maybe even most of them, and you can always rent certain tools or find them second-hand for a deal, but purchasing new quality products can be well worth the investment. If you are lucky enough to have friends or family who are willing to part with their tools for a bit, that can also be a huge help in reducing costs. That’s how I got started.
Now as tempting as those deals on Amazon can be, it’s a good idea to purchase tools manufactured by reputable brands that can stand behind the quality of their product. Spending money on inferior products can be costly when you eventually buy the better tool to achieve the results you want. Having said that, cheap tools can have their place for less critical applications.
As far as this list goes, I have found Dewalt to be my go-to when it comes to power tools, but there are many great options available and you will have to do your own research and find what suits you best. I initially purchased a Ryobi power tool kit which got the job done, but made things a little more difficult/tedious and harder to achieve the results I wanted. I have since replaced most of those tools.
Please (PLEASE!) take the time to learn how to properly and safely work with these tools. Many of them can cause serious and potentially fatal injuries, especially the sharp spinning ones. Do your best to make sure you are using the right techniques and taking the proper safety precautions.
There’s a ton of info online especially when it comes to woodworking that can provide the proper techniques to keep you safe when using these tools. Another even better option to learn how to use these tools safely is through hands-on education. If you’re lucky enough to live near a Rockler, they offer many classes and workshops providing education on safety and the fundamentals of woodworking, for FREE! They also carry some really nice tools and wood stock. Be careful though, they have many things that you didn’t know about, or thought you ever needed.
Table Saw
A table saw can make your life a lot easier providing a solid method to make quick, precise and repeatable cuts. It also allows you to rip lumber lengthwise where sometimes not possible with a circular saw.
I use a Dewalt 10” Jobsite Table Saw. Out of the box it has worked flawlessly. It’s got a nice wide 32-1/2 inch rip capacity, it’s rack and pinion telescoping fence makes for a fast, smooth and accurate setup, and it’s collapsible rolling stand is rock solid and makes it super easy to transport.
Table saws can be very dangerous if not used properly. If you have reservations about purchasing one, you may want to consider buying a SawStop. They sure are pricey, but when you consider what your fingers are worth to you…
Miter Saw (chop saw)
From everything I’ve bought from Ryobi, I’ve been most impressed with their 10 in. Sliding Compound Miter Saw. Having a good miter/chop saw will leave you with a nice clean edge. In addition to square 90 degree cuts, this tool also has the ability to make both miter (angled) and bevel cuts with the capacity to make cross cuts using boards up to 12” which is very helful for drawer box construction. Coupled with a good cross cutting blade you will be good to go.
Circular Saw (SkilSaw)
Although it may require more measuring, clamping and jigging, a circular saw can perform many of the same duties as the table saw and miter saw. I use my circular saw with a good finish blade to cut countertops or to cross cut large plywood sheets. I use the Dewalt XR 20-Volt Max 7-1/4in Brushless Cordless Circular Saw. It’s super powerful delivering the capacity of a corded saw. It has extremely smooth operation and is very accurate. The brake stops the blade after trigger is released which is a nice luxury.
JigSaw (reciprocating saw)
This tool will be your best friend for your build. Among other things, the most important job your jigsaw will handle is cutting the sheet metal of your van body to install the exhaust fan(s) and windows, so it’s a good idea to get yourself something quality here.
I was using a Ryobi until I purchased the Dewalt 20-Volt MAX Cordless Jig Saw, and wow it works like a dream and cuts like butter. Like the circular saw I use, the blade stops with the trigger which is really helpful. Be sure to get a set of task appropriate blades and you’re off to the races!
Drill/Driver
I find it very helpful to have a couple of options available when it comes to drills, and to be able to use two for one task instead of constantly changing bits like making a pilot hole or countersinking with one and then driving your screw with the other.
For boring holes or joining dimensional lumber like 2x3’s, you will need something with a good amount of power. I’m really happy with my DEWALT 1/2-in 20-Volt Max Variable Speed Brushless Cordless Hammer Drill. Although a hammer drill is not really necessary for most van projects, it’s good to know that you have the power. This one is fairly light and compact for a hammer drill and is a good all around tool for many different projects.
Also it’s nice to have something compact and light especially when working in tight spaces. The DEWALT XTREME Sub-Compact 12-Volt Max 3/8-in Brushless Cordless Drill is my go to for most projects in the van, especially where finesse is needed. I would highly recommend this drill, just be sure you’re using it in the appropriate places.
Angle Grinder
I use my angle grinder for a few projects in a van. After cutting the openings for fans and windows in the van body with a jigsaw, I run over the edges with a flap disc on my grinder to clean things up. I also use this setup to remove paint for ground connections. I also use a cut-off wheel to cut aluminum angle for finishing the flooring edges. For the most part, I haven’t needed anything super powerful, so I’ve stuck with the Ryobi 18v ONE+ 4-1/2” Angle Grinder that came with the kit I first bought and it has worked just fine.
Router and Table
You can get the job done without one, but a router has many uses and is sure to level up your game especially when it comes to wood joinery and finish work. I still have a ton to learn with this tool and with cabinet building, but some things I’ve been using it for is to: make round-overs on countertop, cabinet and door edges for a smooth finish, cut dados for drawer bottoms to slide in, join door frames by cutting rail and stile edges, and cut door hinge mortises. I use the Bosch 1617EVSPK Router Combo Package which includes fixed and plunge bases with a pretty sweet little Convertible Benchtop Router Table from Rockler that can also be mounted to a wall.
Pocket Hole Jig
If you are new to cabinet making and wood joinery, you should probably start with a pocket hole jig. This is an important first purchase for any build, and you will end up using it for a ton of projects. Pocket hole joinery involves drilling a hole at an angle into one workpiece, and then butt jointing it to a second workpiece with self-tapping screws. It makes a simple and strong joint, and eliminates the need to leave your joint clamped up for hours to let the glue cure. I use Titebond III wood glue. When properly applied, the glue will be the strongest part of the joint.
I use the Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole Jig System to make all of my pocket holes. There is a screw finder guide on the website or listed on the products to make it easier to find the right screws for your project.
I use a Micro Jig for 1/2” material which drills a smaller hole. It seems to be discontinued for some reason, but you can also use the standard sized drill guide with 1 inch pan head screws.
Be sure to use the right thread for your project: course for soft and plywoods, and fine for hardwoods. To prevent splitting especially when joining hardwoods, use the low speed setting on your drill, set the clutch low, and firmly secure both workpieces together and to your workbench with clamps. Kreg makes some really nice Automaxx clamps (face clamp, right angle clamp, corner clamp, bench clamp) with large clamp faces that distribute clamping force evenly, won't mar delicate surfaces and adjust automatically to match material thickness. It’s important that both pieces are the same thickness and have perfectly squared edges. The pieces should be joined from end or edge grain to edge or face grain. Screwing into end grain will not yield good results.
Squares
In a van it seems that nothing is square, and it feels almost impossible to find level or plumb. A good method to keep things in alignment is to work off center lines which are pretty easy to find. Having a few tools to keep your work square will definitely save you headache as you move along with your build. Here are some of the squares I use on various projects throughout the van:
Framing Square: I mainly use a framing square for finding and establishing right angles. It allows for greater accuracy due to it’s larger size when lining things up. It also makes for a nice straight-edge.
Combination Square: This is a great all around square which measures 90 and 45 degree angles, can measure the center of a circle, it’s blade can be removed and used as a straight-edge and accurate ruler, and it can also be used to determine level and plumb if needed. I like to use my combo square to offset a long edge line.
Speed Square: A speed square’s primary use is to establish rafter angles, but also has other uses that make it handy for many projects around the van. One very helpful use if you don’t have a miter saw, is to use it as a guide for your circular saw when cutting dimensional lumber to length at either a 90 or 45 degree angle just by clamping it to the workpiece.
Kreg Multi-Mark: I always have this tool handy. This multi-purpose marking tool is super versatile and is compact enough to keep in your pocket. It makes for consistent repeatable and easy to transfer measurements. The Multi-Mark tool features three different scale configurations, a built-in level, and a handy 3/16” reveal gauge.
Angle Finder: I purchased a digital tool during our first build and find myself constantly reaching for it for all those intricate pieces that need to align with the contours of the van. There is usually some simple math involved when transferring the angle to your workpiece, but a ‘reverse’ function makes it a little easier to calculate the correct angle for the application. I would highly recommend picking up one of these tools to take the guess work out of making nice accurate angled cuts.
MDF Panel: When joining two pieces of wood, they should be as square as possible. This is especially important for long joints. One way to ensure the edges align is to run it through your table saw against a known square surface like an engineered panel (i.e. plywood, particle board, melamine or MDF panel). Be sure that you are using the correct methods when performing this cut as it can be quite dangerous with the wrong technique. Here’s one example..
Cross Nut/Plus Nut Setter
For anything structural that I install into the metal frame of a van, I like to use cross nuts. These are threaded inserts that can be set in either an existing hole, or a hole bored to the correct size to match the cross nut to accept the machine screws you want to use. They have stronger pull-out strength than self-tapping screws or rivet nuts and allow you to easily insert and remove a fastener. For consistency I have been using 1/4-20 cross nuts and machine screws throughout my builds. If you consider the amount of shavings produced when you bore through metal, it may be more difficult but probably a better idea to size your cross nuts and screws to match the existing holes in the van. When using existing holes, you can insert hanger bolts to mark an impression on the back of the piece you are going to screw to the wall to align your holes. I use an Astro Pneumatic 1450 13" PlusNut and Extra-Long Rivet Nut Setter. The kit comes with 9 metric and standard mandrels.
Neodymium ‘rare earth’ Magnets
Anytime you drill into the metal of your van, you want to try to minimize any metal shavings from sticking around and promoting rust. This can be difficult when cutting large holes for windows and fans, although there is something to be said about pneumatic/electric metal shears. When drilling smaller holes as in the case of cross nuts, I like to use neodymium magnets to catch most of the shavings. They’re also great to use for curtains, window covers or anything you want to secure to metal in your van for your travels.
Step Drill Bits
Step drill bits can be extremely handy for opening holes in the van metal. To make new holes I use an 1/8th inch drill bit as a pilot hole and then run a step drill bit through to widen the hole for the application needed. It makes drilling larger holes through the metal much easier and helps to prevent drilling through the exterior sheet metal of the van.
Hole Saws
You are going to need hole saws to build a van. Having bought them one at a time for each project as I needed, I ended up spending much more than if I had just bought a kit to begin with. Do what suits your needs/budget here.
Scribing Tool/Compass
A scribing tool is indispensable for transferring all of the contours in the van to your building material. It will probably take a good bit of trial and error when it comes to getting the contours just right, so be sure to use scrap material as you inch closer to making a nice finish fit.
Flexible Shaft Bit Holder
This tool is such a huge help when it comes to the tight situations you find yourself in when building a van. I have the Ryobi straight shaft that has been super essential, but will be picking up the Dewalt right angle version of this tool for obvious reasons. Not sure why I don’t have one yet.
Concealed Hinge Jig
For installing european style concealed hinges, I would highly recommend getting yourself another Kreg jig. Their adjustable concealed hinge jig kit comes with the 35mm forstner bit needed to bore the hole for your hinges and makes installing these doors such a breeze.
Dust Collection
Essential for woodworking and general workspace cleanup, a good quality full size shop vac will last you years and allow you to attach to many of your tools for easy dust collection. *Some tools may require adapters.
Electrical Tools
WIRE STRIPPER
I use a Klein Tools Katapult Compound Wire Stripper. This tool can strip (and cut) up to 10 AWG stranded wire. The compound action grips and strips via a single-action squeezing motion removing up to 1-inch of the jacket layer in a single step.
WIRE CRIMPER
When using heat shrink connectors, it’s important to use the right crimper. Standard crimping pliers or double crimpers can penetrate the sleeve and compromise the waterproof connection rendering the functionality of your connectors useless. This would be a shame considering they aren't cheap. Ancor makes a great Single-Crimp Ratcheting Tool specifically designed for heat shrink connectors. To ensure a proper crimp, this tool must be fully closed before allowing itself to open, which minimizes the potential for installer error.
CABLE CUTTER
In order to cut larger cables (6 - 2/0 AWG) to length, you will need a heavy duty cable cutter. I went with the 9-inch High-Leverage Cable Cutter from Klein Tools. It’s cable-gripping shear-type jaws and high-leverage design allows a precise, one handed shearing action, perfect for working in confined spaces.
CABLE STRIPPER
To strip cables that are 8 AWG and larger, I would recommend the Jonard Round Cable Stripper. If you’d rather not fork out the cash for another expensive specialty tool, you could use a utility knife. However, this would risk damaging the copper strands which would compromise the quality of the connection.
LUG CRIMPER
Crimping a lug on a battery cable takes some serious force. At this critical connection, you’ll want to use the right tool. TEMCo makes a quality, affordable hydraulic cable lug crimper with a 5-ton capacity allowing up to a 2/0 AWG connection. This tool will crimp anything your wire crimper doesn't handle (6 AWG and larger). You could also purchase cable with lugs pre-installed, however it may make installation more challenging.
HEAT GUN
In order to protect your connections with heat shrink, be sure to pick yourself up a decent heat gun. Evenly applying consistent heat will shrink the adhesive sleeve to the cable providing a water- tight seal to your exposed connection. For this job, I would recommend the Porter Cable 1500W heat gun given its combination of quality and affordability.
Plumbing Tools
Tube/pipe cutter
A flexible tube cutter can generally cut flexible tube up to about 1-1/2 inch in diameter. It also has the ability to cut PVC and PEX pipe up to 3/4 inch. A ratcheting PVC pipe cutter will cut up to 1-1/4 in. PVC pipe (or 1-5/8 in. O.D.), CPVC, and PEX pipe. It will also work on flexible tubing. Depending on what you’re cutting, you can usually get by with either one of these tools. Personally I just use a pipe cutter for most cuts, and a miter saw for cutting larger diameter pipe.
PEX
For making most of my PEX pipe connections, I use PEX Barb fittings with pinch clamps. Alternatively you can use Push-To-Connect PEX fittings. In my opinion, the barb and clamp connections feel more secure, however push-to-connect fittings definitely have their place especially when it comes to repairs. They are very simple to install, don’t require any specialty tools, and are easy to remove. They are however quite expensive. Most PEX barb fittings are available in an advanced polymer plastic which are significantly cheaper than brass fittings, and work just as well if not better in some instances. The plastic fittings are suited for potable water distribution and hydronic heating applications and are rated up to 200deg F.
PEX Pinch Clamp Tool
To install a stainless steel pinch clamp around PEX pipe to connect to a PEX barb fitting I use this specialty one-handed ratcheting tool. It will disengage from a pinch clamp only when a complete and secure connection has been made illuminating an LED indicator light. There are other ways to install barbed PEX fittings, but I feel that this is the most user-friendly and cost-effective solution for this type of application.
De-burr Tool
With many connections, it's important to make sure cut pipe ends are free of any burrs. This is especially important with push-to-connect fittings. In this case you can use the SharkBite Depth Gauge/Deburr tool. This tool will deburr PEX pipe from 1/4” up to 1”. It also works on copper pipe making it a great tool for LP gas lines as well. This tool is also a depth gauge which measures proper installation depth for push-to-connect fittings.
